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2月23日 Old World Wines - BURGUNDYThe wines of France - Burgundy Region
Burgundy produces the most extravagantly priced wines in the world, and is the most difficult subjects in the study of wine. It lies 1 30 miles south of Dijon and encompasses The Cote d'Or with it's two sub-districts the Cote de Beaune and the Cote de Nuits, Chablis, the Cote Chalonnaise, the Maconnais, and the hills of Beaujolais. Burgundy produces only one third the
volume of wine that Bordeaux does and the famous wine of the Cote d'or only produces 5% of it's total. The wine from this region is my favorite. Delicate, round, and classic, yet big and powerful, would sum up my appraisal of the wine produced particularly in the Cote d'or region. Only Pinot Noir is used for the reds, excluding Beaujolais which use Gamay, and Chardonnay for the Whites. Lets examine Beaujolais first and save the Cote d'or for later. Beaujolais is 100% Gamay grape which is typically light and fruity. It is meant to be consumed young, almost immediately. Most bottles are between 8 and 1 5 dollars, although, when you increase the quality with the "grand crus" you will pay a bit more, but still exellent value. The levels of quality are: · Beaujolais - basic wine from the region with less alcohol. · Beaujolais Superieur- same as above but higher level of alcohol · Beaujolais Village - comes from certain villages in Beaujolais, this is a bit better quality and a bit more expensive. · "Cru" - There are ten crus in Beaujolais that produces the highest quality wine of this region. They are: 1. Brouilly, 2. Regnie, 3. Morgon, 4. Moulin-a-Vent, 5. Fleurie, 6. Chenas, 7. Chiroubles, 8. Saint-Amour, 9. Julienas, and 10. Cote de Brouilly.
Learn them they will reward you. These "Crus" don't make it obvious that they are Beaujolais wines as they want to be considered apart from the crowd, so, therefore by glancing at them in a wine store you might not recognize them as Beaujolais, but they are in fact the state of the art! The third Thursday in November is Beaujolais Nouveau day, a time when everyone tries to offer the consumer the new wine that has been taken from the grape crops that year. Save your money for the "Crus" of this region, you will enjoy it a lot more, and probably won't get that new wine headache. Southern Burgundy consists of the Cote Chalonnaise and the Maconnais and produces wine that offers good value as they are not well known. Try
1. Rully, 2. Givry , 3. Mercurey or 4. Pouilly Fuisse.
This region is the southern most white wine producing area in Burgundy and in general are pleasant, light and uncomplicated. In Burgundy the most important factor in making wine is the soil. Think of the vine as a straw that brings all the goodness to the grape from the soil it is planted in. The vine does nothing but transports what it finds in the earth. Seeing it this way you can understand the French term "terroir", which creates all the nuances and tastes you find in your glass, and thereby explains why there can be so much difference in just a few miles of grape fields. Right smack dab in the heart of Burgundy is the Cote d'Qr. loosely translated it means the slopes of gold, no doubt because of the income it produces for it's owners and producers. Here we find the highest price of farm real estate in the world, that is only some thirty miles long and about one half a mile wide. Every time I visit I am amazed at how small and compact this holy ground is, and how diverse the tastes and crops are. To understand this region you need to know there are four levels of quality.
They say a little knowledge is dangerous, and here is a perfect example. You glance over this blog and you remember that Burgundy is great wine so next time you go into a wine store you buy a bottle of "Burgundy" wine as it isn't cheap and it has a nice label. You are disappointed, if that is great wine then you will stick to that Canadian stuff or Chillian you have drinking for the past 20 years.. Don't be fooled by the lights and mirrors that lure the unexpecting into. You must learn the difference between the four levels of quality, and read a Burgundy label. Save yourself from all the mistakes I made when I was attacking the retail shelves of the wine stores in my initial zeal. I am not saying that there isn't good generic or village wine, because there is, but when visiting the Burgundy wine in the store or restaurant some in-depth knowledge saves you a lot of pain. Lets look at my favorite wine Montrachet. There will be a least four qualities of wine based on aforementioned. The generic wine label looks a lot like the grand cm label. It says Montrachet, it has the Appellation Controlee label and has the negociant or importer name on the label. The Village wine has the actual name of the village, Puliny-Montrachet, the negociant's name and the A.O.C. label. The premier cm has the name of the village, Puliny-Montrachet, the A.O.C. label the negociant's name and the vineyard's name. There are hundreds of premier cm vineyards to choose from. The grand Cru has only the vineyard, the A.O.C. label and the negotiant name. It helps to know the grand cm vineyards, there are only 28 in the Cote d'Or. From the label you can tell it is from France, that it is a Burgundy wine, that it is from the Cote d'Or, that it is from the Cote de Beaune (internal region of the Cote d'Or), the village it is from, the year it was made and the vineyard it is from. All the thrill of rolling the dice is gone! but the result of the wine you select is pretty much for sure. Remember, unlike Bordeaux the Grand Cru is the best, with the premier crus rating very, very high. Following is a list of the grand crus in the Cote d'Or.
For me to describe the pleasure of drinking some of these wines I would defer you to Alexandre Dumas (1802- 1870) who upon being asked of his opinion of Montrachet, a grand cru, said "Montrachet should be drunk kneeling, with one's head bared". Although some Burgundy wines are estate bottled, over eighty percent of the wines are sold, like Alsase, through shippers. The following list are, in my opinion, the better shippers.
Bouchard Pere & Fils Joseph Drouhin LouisJadot Louis Latour ]affelin Moillard Jean Chartron
The wines of Burgundy can be expensive because there is limited supply and much demand. At one time in my personal wine cellar 85% of the wine is from Burgundy. Upon a choice in a restaurant I will choose a Burgundy, I love the “female” qualities it presents to ll my senses. Treat yourself to a bottle and you will understand why someone called this “bottled Poetry”.
Old world winesWines of the Old World
The Wines of France One out of every seven French person earns his living directly or indirectly from wine. In France wine is considered food, an essential part of daily life, and no table is set without a bottle. French winemaking is regulated by strict government laws by the Appellation d'Origine Controlee. Only 15% of the wine made in France is worthy to be designated A.O.C., the balance is consumed as a simple beverage. We are concerned with the regions of top quality wine. These regions are:
· Alsace · Loire Valley · Bordeaux · Burgundy · Rhone Valley · Champagne
Alsace and Loire Valley are truly known for their white wines, while Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhone Valley have both high quality white and reds. Instead of giving you a geography lesson, just learn these regions.
Alsace is north and close to Germany, and has many similarities. Same grape varieties, same looking bottle, except the wine is made differently. Every bit of sugar is is fermented here in France as opposed to the German style. Of all Alsace wines 99% are totally dry and quite a bit stronger than the german wines. On average German wines are 8 to 9% alcohol where the Alsace wine is 11 to 12%. Two factors are important when selecting an Alsace wine, namely the grape variety and the reputation of the shipper. Look for Hugel & Fils, F.E. Trimbach, Leon Beyer or Dopff Au Moulin. Landholders in Alsace don't grow enough grapes for it to be economically feasible to market their own wine. They sell their grapes to a shipper who produces, bottles and markets under his own name. The best thing about Alsace wines is the price, as they are unknown, good quality and readily available. You will find Riesling and Gewurztraminer the dominant grape varieties there. For beginners this area produces some of the most "instructive" nuances.
Loire Valley starts on the west coast and stretches 600 miles along the Loire river. Loire wines are also reasonably priced. They are considered the summer wines of the Parisians and some of the most famous are: Pouilly-Fume (not to be confused with Pouilly-Fuisse from Burgundy), Sancerre, and Muscadet. These wines are meant to be consumed young, with Vouvary being the only exception I can think of. These wines are not easily found in North America or Asia, so if you see them buy them. Bordeaux is the most important wine making region in the world. There are 54 wine regions that enable them to carry
the A.O.C. designation but all you have to do is really know the five major ones to follow the purpose of this book: 1. Graves 2. Medoc 3. Pomerol 4. St. Emillion 5. Sauternes
In the Medoc there are 4 major inner areas that you should also be familiar with, namely: 1. St. Estephe 2. Pauillac 3. St. Jullien 4. Margaux
In the Bordeaux region there have been many comprehensive guides to the wines produced. This is a very complicated and extensive wine producing region, I will attempt to give you an overview.
There are three levels of quality in Bordeaux:
GOOD Regional m wines that come from a defined area. Only grapes and wine made in that area can be called by
BETTER Proprietary - table wines that have been given specific names. Ie: Mouton Cadet
BEST Chateau - these wines are produced in individual vineyards. The grapes are harvested, the wine is made and it is bottled at the particular chateau or farm.
We are for the purpose of this blog looking at the best quality wines so we will focus our attention on the Chateau wines. The good news is you will use this information more than most in the book because Bordeaux wines are very abundant both in wine shops and restaurants, the bad news is there are more than 7,000 individual chateaus. Wine has been around for thousands of years, but about 1 30 years ago in the Medoc region of Bordeaux a wine classification was established. In was done at the Paris exhibition of 1855 to rate the top Medoc wines according to price, which at that time was relative to quality. The classification of 1855 had three parts and rated the top 61 chateaus in the Medoc in the following manner:
Grand Crus Classes Grand Crus Exceptionnels Crus Bourgeois
Crus in French simply means "growth" but simply means classification. Following is the official classification of 130 years ago of first growth, second growth, third growth, forth growth and fifth growth, the first being the most expensive and best quality and downward from there. There were many, many wines that did not make this classification, so, you will understand that this is the rating of lithe best" of lithe best". In 1 8 5 5 the difference in price from each classification was about 25%. So if a first growth was $150.00 then a second growth would be $112.00, a third growth would be $84.00 etc..The wines of St. Emilion and Pomerol were not included in this classification, as at the time they were not "trendy" enough and therefore did not merit listing. Many argue that the classification is not valid today because much has changed, but for our understanding it is good enough. After my discovery that my knowledge of wine was limited to the term "Bingo Juice" I decided to memorize these classifications with their proper Chateau names and communes or districts they were from. All knowledge is good but apart from readily identifying the bottle quickly in a wine store or restaurant there is no purpose to memorizing the classification. Use it as reference material and look for wines that are on the list to try. Everyone should try a first growth Bordeaux at least once or twice in his or her life time. This is what wine is supposed to be like, and what everything is judged by. I recently had a bottle of Chateau Lafite-Rothchild with two good friends who have had limited exposure to good wines. Once they got by the price of the wine they fell in love. Remember that a good bottle of wine is remembered long after the price has been forgotten.
Looking at the classification it interesting to note how each commune rates in the total picture. · Margaux has 21 wines · Pauillac has 18 · St-Julien has 11 · St-Estephe has 5 · St-Laurent has 3 · The Haut Medoc has 2 · Graves only 1.
This gives us a guide as to where the best regions are. Maybe you don't want to spend a lot of money on a bottle of wine but would like to be relatively safe in your buying decision. Then look for the chateaus in the Margaux or Pauillac region. Other factors come into play such as vintage which we will discuss at a later time.
Pomerol is one of the top wine districts in Bordeaux which is not included in the aforemention classifications. It is the smallest of the top wine districts and therefore it's wines are very difficult to find} and when you do you wish you din't because they are very expensive. Look for:
· Chateau Petrus, · Chateau Trotanoy · Chateau L'Evangile · Chateau Lafleur · Chateau Gazin.
The wines here are made almost exclusively with Merlot grapes and are wonderful wines.
St- Emilion produces a huge amount of wine. There are eleven first growths:
· Chateau Ausone · Chateau Bel-Air · Chateau Cheval Blanc · Chateau Beausejour-Duffau · Chateau La Gaffeliere · Chateau Canon · Chateau Figeac · Chateau Tottevieille · Chateau Clos Fourtet · Chateau Magdelaine · Chateau Pavie
There are many other St-Emilion wines that are good quality and worth trying. You will find them good value and readily available, but search for the chateau wines not the regional.
Sauternes wines are sweet and primarily used as a dessert wine. You can buy regional or chateau wines. Remember, regional wine is simply labelled "Sauternes", St-Emilion" or whatever region the wine is from. There are some spectacular wines in the top chateaus in Sauternes. Try Chateau d' Yquem if you can swallow the price tag. It is expensive because it takes many pickings before the crop is entirely harvested. The harvest here can run Into November. Also, very Important in this district, only buy the best vintages which will be discussed in a later entry 2月22日 Grape varietiesPrincipal Wine Grape Of The World
“The choice of Grape is the Spirit of the Wine”
A wine receives it’s legacy of flavor directly from the vine that gave up the grapes. Each vine has characteristics unique to it’s variety. A wine can be made up from a single grape variety or a blend of several. Following are 13 grape varieties and comments on each when it is magically transformed into wine:
CABERNET-SAUVIGNON
PINOT NOIR
MERLOT
GAMAY
SYRAH
SANGIOVESE
NEBBIOLO
CHARDONNAY
CHENIN
SAUVINGNON
GEWURZTRAMINER
RIESLING
This information will help you understand the many varieties of grapes that are used to make wine. At Pasadena Neighbourhood winery and our Wine shops around the world these and many more varieties are offered for you to taste and discover exactly what type of grape you prefer. I have mentioned nuances many times, or “nose” (aroma) of the wine. Walk into a kitchen and smell freshly baked cookies. That one whiff and you are transported away to your grandmother’s kitchen with her kind face smiling down at you. Your sense of smell is a powerful yet unused ability. Like taste and sight, smell is a major factor in enjoying life and particularly wine. You will learn to identify the wines nuances and look forward to the expected aromas. First things firstFirst Things First
“Wine cheers the sad, revives the old, inspires the young, makes weariness forget his toil”
The mystique of wine can be very attractive, but it can also be very intimidating. The first thing one must do, professional or amateur is “smash” the walls that you perceive that surrounds the mystery of wine. It is not brain surgery, or working out mathematical logarithms. There is no right or wrong when it comes to what you like to drink. You either like what you are drinking, or you don’t and the good news is nobody can prove you wrong. Nine times out of ten the person standing by your table in a restaurant with bottle in hand waiting for you to taste the wine he has just poured knows less than you do now, and certainly less after you have read this presentation. In order to dismantle the mystique attached to wine it is necessary to have some basic knowledge on how wine is made. You will be able to identify what you like and what you don’t like. You will eliminate standing in a wine shop looking for a special bottle of wine for a dinner party and feeling so totally overwhelmed that you just pick a bottle with a nice label and big price ticket hoping that your guests enjoy your “dice roll”. The thing my partners identified in that small restaurant in Canada some 20 years ago was that wine was fermented grape juice. Let’s look at what fermentation is. Fermentation is the process by which grape juice turns into wine. The formula for this process is: Sugar + Yeast = Alcohol + Carbon Dioxide Both the sugar and the yeast occur naturally on the skin of the grape. The fermentation process ends when all the sugar has been converted into alcohol, or when the alcohol level has reached 15%, which kills off the remaining yeast. The carbon Dioxide dissipates into the air in most wines except Champagne and bubbly wines where it is retained by a special process. When you think of wine you think of France, Italy, and California. Ever wonder why? Many factors come into producing a good wine including the right soil, weather conditions, but I think it has a lot to do with history and culture. I can only liken wine production to food production…you have good chefs, poor chefs and fantastic chefs. You can start with the same quality ingredients spend the same amount of time preparing the meal and end up with totally different results. If the great chef has inferior ingredients the results are inferior. However the combination of the best quality ingredients and the best quality chef is a unforgettable experience. There are definite and specific limitations on where vines can grow, and limitations on growing season, the number of days of sunlight, rainfall, soil quality and soil drainage. The right balance of all these factors in the hands of a top quality “chef” makes the difference between good, fair and excellent wines. There are many different kinds of grapes used to make wines and we will discuss this in great detail later in this blog, and some of the vines that are used have taken 40 years to grow. Red grapes need a longer growing season than the white grapes and so they are usually from the warmer and most southerly regions. Don’t be fooled however, white wine can be made from red grapes. The color of the wine comes entirely from the grape skin. If you remove the skin immediately after the harvest no color is imparted to the wine. Champagne is made this way with red grapes and so is Californian Zinfandel. So you can see how important it is to know the regions of the world where wine is made. Why is it important to know about the year wine is made? The year or vintage gives you an idea as to the weather conditions of the harvest. Was there frost, was there enough sun, was there too much rain, not enough rain, was there any mildew…all these affect the wines taste. Every year is different weather conditions so by learning the years you are learning what the weather was like while the grapes were growing and during harvest time. The most common question I am asked when people discover that I collect wine, and more importantly make wine, is “how old is your oldest bottle of wine” It is a good question and I have some old wines, but most people do not realize that 90% of the wine produced in the world are meant to consume within 1 year. A basic fallacy is that all wine gets better with age. Let me explain what I mean. Tannin is a natural compound that comes from the skins, stems and pips of the grapes and acts as a preservative. In young wines tannin can be very astringent and makes the wine taste very bitter. The better wines made in renown Chateaus have stronger tannins and are therefore better kept with time to drink at a later date when the tannins have had time to mellow. To understand tannins you must just bite into a grape seed to taste what I am talking about. To summarize I would say that the taste of wine is linked directly to it’s chemical composition and that of it’s grapes, it’s method of aging, and it’s wine making techniques. The grape variety, the soil, the region, the climate, the year of vintage, the cultivation practices, the techniques of vindication or the “recipe” the chef uses, and the storage and aging conditions encompass now what I once knew as Bingo Juice. No longer do I however, just drink it to experience the “Bingo” you feel after a couple of glasses. I now understand what John Mortimer meant when he said “The point of drinking wine is…to taste sunlight trapped in a bottle, and to remember some stony slope in Tuscany or a village by the Gironde”
It is an amazing liquid, full of spirtual majesty and beauty, nourishing and miraculous.
2月21日 what in the world is BINGO JUICE?RATING WINE - We were talking about a unique way to rate wine, well, lets be unique and have some fun with it. Let's say there are five types of wine:
Under the “B” for best – Superlative wine, absolutely the best in class, Outstanding! Hard to find anything better Under the “I” for interesting – Good, special qualities, no major defects. Under the “N” for no good – Below acceptability, passably drinkable. Under the “G” for great – Outstanding characteristics, excellent wine. Under the “O” for oopsie – Completely no good, undrinkable, “Oh oh, what a mistake”
Although sometimes you don’t know what to expect from a bottle of wine, I make a practice of only drinking the “BIG” wines, wines that fall into the “B” for Best, the “I” for Interesting and the “G” for Great. The other wines just speak for themselves. Wine that is NO GOOD and Oopsies spell “NO”, and I will have no part of them. I don’t want to waste time or money on “Oopsies”. You are throwing your money away when you buy an INEXPENISVE or BAD bottle of wine (just because of the price) that falls into the “NO” grouping…as you either don’t enjoy it or you don’t drink it. Buying a lousy bottle of wine because it is priced well is spending too much money and a luxury I cannot afford. Whatever the price may be, wine that is surely worth more than the money that it costs to buy. As Jancis Robinson said “Every glass of wine we drink represents a whole year of vineyard cultivation, and perhaps several years of effort in the winery…yet most of us throw it down our throats, without even trying to ‘read it’ “ This presentations primary directive is to look at the “BIG” wines and regions produced in the world today. Hopefully the Bingo Juice concept of understanding wine will be magically transformed into a Vine to Wine understanding, which we come to realize is God’s gift to mankind.
To Be Continued
Bingo JuiceUnderstanding and appreciating the not-so-simple subject of wine
A personal testimony: About 20 years ago in a small restaurant in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada, I was sitting with my business partners having dinner and exchanging small talk when one of them asked me if I wanted any Bingo Juice with dinner. I was completely dumfounded. “What in the world is Bingo Juice” I asked quite naively. They laughed “ Bingo Juice, you know what it is, fermented grape juice, have a couple of glasses and BINGO you get some personality” .Well, I had a couple of glasses with them that night and realized that they had hit the nail right on the head. Although I had ordered and drank a lot of bottles of wine over the years it really was just Bingo Juice to me. I knew nothing about wine except it was either red or white grapes, which I have come to realize now that even that assumption was erroneous. The realization that I knew nothing about wine except the “Bingo” feeling was the motivation I needed to learn something about the mysteries and magic of wine. I then began my life long journey into understanding and appreciating fermented grape juice. I began simply by ready books and magazines. I made systematic visits to wine stores and merchants, and attacked the inventory on the shelves. I joined wine clubs and went to wine testings throughout the city. I decided since most valuable wine came from France I should learn the French language. I traveled to where they made the stuff in France, all the time tasting and trying to understand what Bingo Juice really was. I decided later to get involved in the wine business and with my partners and have opened in Pasadena, California.. We have many possibilities for new stores and potential partners that we are exploring at the moment, having lots of fun and educating people in the art of making and enjoying wine. This journey that I chose to walk really never ends, I am learning all the time, however, many of my dearest friends and family have continually asked me to help them find and enjoy the quintessential bottle of wine, that which was just Bingo juice a few years ago. Call it “plonk”, “Bingo Juice” or in the words of Ernest Hemmingway “the most civilized THING in the world”. The intellectual attractions of wine as less quickly understood than the sensory attractions. Wine is, like philosophy, a subject or a field of study. One can talk about wine from the simple exchanges of liking or disliking the glass you are drinking, or move to discussions much more complex involving history, geography, topography, physics, chemistry, law and commerce. The purpose of this presentation is to provide you with a basic foundation to build upon, something to “whet” your appetite and to create enough interest for you to continue to learn, to come into one of our stores where we will teach you how you can make your own wine, designed exactly to your particular tastes. This presentation is designed simply and easy to read with helpful information for you to experiment with.
There are all kinds of rating systems of wine today, the most common being a rating out of 100 points. These are well worth reading and considering as the professional wine tasters have developed an excellent sense of taste. However, I have learnt over the years that the most desirable wine starts with a smile and it ends with a smile. For our purposes I would like to suggest the following simple system to rate your wines. I have found most wines fall into 1 of 5 categories....To be continued
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